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Saturday, January 21, 2012

Beautiful Bow Skirt

OOOOOOkay ... So I was perusing esty the other day and I saw this skirt, SO STINKIN' CUTE!!! And I said to myself, "I HAVE to make that skirt" (and then of course post a tutorial on how to make it).  And here is said tutorial ...


I use patterns A LOT! It's just easier and they are only $1 at joann's (they have sales like every other week on patterns there's always one brand that is $1, just keep your eye out and stock up).  So here's the pattern I used, Simplicity pattern #2451, skirt letter C


So first things first ... you need 2 yards of fabric, 1/2 yard of interfacing, a 7" zipper, and thread (this skirt on esty cost $110, I made it for less than $15).  Wash your fabric then iron it and cut out your pattern pieces (*NOTE* pattern sizes are not the same as store sizes, know your measurements and look on the pattern envelope to determine your size).  Once all your pattern pieces are cut out clip the notches (they look like < on the side your you pieces) and mark the pleats (can you see my blue little lines?).  The marks and clips will help you fit the pieces together (kinda like a really fabulous fun puzzle that you get to wear when you are all done!)


For the pleats, bring the solid line mark to the broken line mark and pin down


Do that for all four pleats, this piece will be the front of your skirt


stitch across the pleats (1/4" from edge) to hold them in place


Now for the darts in the back, follow the markings on the pattern piece, mark the three dots like so (can you see the beautiful isosceles triangle?) 


fold the fabric so the two dots closest to the edge are lined up (I used a pin to make sure they were lined up properly), then find the lone dot it would be the apex of this isosceles triangle (there was your math for the day) and fold the fabric right through the middle of that dot, press


To make the dart, start stitching at the edge of your fabric, at an angle.  Stitch through the first (and second dot, which is folded under the first) dot, then through the third dot (the apex) and right off the fold of the fabric


Your stitches should look like this.  My finger is pointing to the third dot and where you stitched right off the fold of the fabric.  Tie a knot with the thread at that point (so your dart won't come undone)


Press your dart to the side.  Repeat for the dart on the second back piece


Now for the zipper (I am assuming you all know how to put in a zipper ... if you don't and need a more detailed tutorial on this please let me know.  I would be happy to make one).  Stitch the two back sections together (matching notches (can you see the little notch I clipped in my fabric? it's right in line with my finger on the edge of the fabric.)  Use a basting stitch (a LONG stitch, see to the right of my finger) from the top to the notch, then switch to a normal stitch length (mine's 2.5), reinforce and stitch the rest of the way to the bottom with a normal stitch length (see to the left of my finger)


Press open the seam you just created


and finish the edges (I used a zigzag stitch and pinking shears)


Now for the pockets! YES!! This spectacular skirt has pockets <3  Place the pocket piece right side down on the front piece of the skirt (btw ... if my instructions aren't making sense, or you need some clarification, you can always refer to the instructions in the pattern envelope)


Stitch along the curve (right sides of fabric together) like so ...


Open, now we are going to, what they call, understitch


While pulling the pocket and seam away from the front of the skirt edge stitch (stitch really close to the edge of the seam ... see pic, the seam is on the left and I am using the little notch in my presser foot as a guide) 


TADA! Understitching just helps the pocket to lay flat on the inside


Press the pocket to the back (or inside) of the skirt


Then put the pocket facing on ... just lay it right on top, right side of pocket to right side of facing.  Stitch facing to pocket, around the bottom and up the side (in the next pic you can see where exactly you stitch)


Finish the edges (again I used a zigzag and pinking shears)


Then stitch the pocket and facing to the front of the skirt (1/4" seam, just to hold in place)
Repeat on the other side


Now I am going to french seam the front piece to the back piece (I have a tutorial on seams if you need more instructions).  Place wrong sides together and stitch a 1/4" seam


Press seam open


Flip so right sides are together and press along seam


Stitch right sides together 3/8" seam


Press seam to back.  repeat on other side.


Now for the BOW! Cut 4 strips 4" x 42"
Leave one end straight 


I cut the other at a 45* (degree) angle, just because it makes it prettier (I think) you can leave it straight if you prefer.  Place right sides togher


and stitch (I used a 3/8" seam)


Now the points get a little tricky (I have a tip in my heart hand warmer tutorial on how to make pointy points)
Stitch down until you get close to the point then with your needle down (in the fabric) rotate the fabric and stitch two straight stitches


Then (with your needle down) rotate and continue to stitch (with the same seam allowance) until you get to the next point


Do the same thing here (needle down, rotate, two straight stitches, needle down, rotate)


And stitch the rest of the way (leave the top straight end open for flipping)


Flip (so right sides are showing) and Press


Apply the interfacing to the yoke front and back (waistband)
See pic ... place yoke front (right side up), bow, yoke back (right side down) and stitch together


Press seam toward back
Repeat on the other side


Attach yoke section to skirt, right sides together, (here's another math word for ya) convex curved edge of yoke to edge of skirt, matching notches and seams


Pin in place and stitch around


Press seam UP


Place zipper along open/basted seam in back


Use a zipper foot to stitch the zipper to the seam


After the zipper is attached on the inside I go an extra step and stitch around the zipper on the outside 
Stitch down one side of the zipper


With the needle down rotate and reinforce the bottom of the zipper.
Then with your needle down rotate and stitch the other side of the zipper


It helps hide the zipper


We're almost done ... I promise! Stitch the non-interfaced yoke pieces at the sides


Fold and press over 1/4" of the CONVEX edge of the yoke pieces


Attach (with right sides together) the non-interfaced yoke pieces to the interfaced yoke pieces


Stitch around


Flip non-interfaced yoke to the inside (you can understitch again if you would like), press and top stitch yoke pieces together (convex edge again)


My finger is pointing at the convex edge you top stitched



FINALLY ... HEM the bottom of your skirt!
Fold over 1/4", and press


Then fold over again 3/8" and press


And top stitch the hem


And you're DONE!




WOW! That was a LONG one! Hope you enjoyed it!
As always let me know if you have any questions
Lots of Love <3